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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.